OAKHAM : CHURCH OF ALL SAINTS
Church Post Code LE15 6AA
Open to visitors
It was March 2025 and a return visit to the church of All Saints in Oakham; the second church of what turned in to a 12 church crawl which started in Rutland, then venturing in to Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire before ending in Lincolnshire.
The church here is as far to the north west as my sites cover, with Peterborough around 25 miles away. Stamford is 11 miles away to the east and Rutland Water is a short distance away also to the east. In terms of surface area Rutland Water is the largest man made reservoir in Europe, but in terms of water volume it is beaten by Kielder Water in Northumberland. One day that may turn up as a quiz question and you will thank me!
Oakham is one of just two towns in Rutland, with the other being Uppingham. Oakham recorded a population of 12,149 at the time of the census of 2021; this being more than a third of the entire county population with 41,381 recorded as living in Rutland as a whole during that same census.
Off to the east of the church is Oakham Castle, although it is only the great hall that remains, which dates from 1180 – 1190. The hall houses a collection of horseshoes; with any member of royalty or a peer of the realm passing through the town having to pay a forfeit of a horseshoe. These are all on display in the hall, around 200 of them, with the oldest dating back to around 1470, in the reign of King Edward IV. For the most part they are dated and named and they are hung upside down, with Rutland superstition suggesting that, in that way, the devil couldn't sit in the hollow.
This was a revisit; having visited the church here on a few occasions over the years. The number 9 bus, which ran from Peterborough to Nottingham went through the town in those long ago sepia tinted days before many bus routes went the same way as village shops and schools.
Fond memories of a visit here with David in the summer of 2014; we may have worshiped here at an evening prayer service or we may have ended up here after worshiping nearby; with the smart money being on Brooke. We arrived at Oakham to see that wonderful two minute spell when the setting sun just hits the right angle and all is golden for a brief time; the west front of the church here bathed in a golden light.
There was a church and a priest mentioned here at the time of the Domesday Survey in 1086, with the land owned by King William at that time; nothing remaining from that early church. The oldest surviving part of the church is the south doorway which dates from 1190.
The church that we see today consists of west tower with spire, nave with north and south aisles and clerestories, north and south transepts, south porch, south vestry, north and south chapels and chancel.
The Norman church was enlarged during the early 13th century with aisles either added or widened and the chancel extended, with the south chapel being added at the end of that century. During the first quarter of the 14th century there was much rebuilding here; the nave being rebuilt, with new arcades with the walls of the transepts heightened to match the height of the nave walls.
The tower and spire were also started at this time; a long task which was completed during the 15th century, with I daresay work being halted as the Black Death swept through during the middle of that century.
In 1450 the north chapel was rebuilt and the south chapel was built around 1480; with the church being reroofed throughout during the 15th century.
The church here was restored under the direction of George Gilbert Scott between 1857 and 1859, with other later Victorian restoration, with the spire, which rises to a height of 162 feet, being repaired in the early 1930’s.
Eight bells hang here, with each of the eight being recast by Gillett and Johnstone in 1910. When North compiled his study of the church bells of Rutland the situation was different. Of the eight, the first, second and eighth of the rings were from Taylor of Loughborough, the first two being cast in 1860 with the latter coming in 1875. The fourth and fifth were from Mears of London in 1858. I have no information on any bells that hung here before that time. I am assuming that the Victorian bells were re-castings of earlier bells that hung here.
Of the other three, the third of the ring was cast locally, by Tobias Norris III of the Stamford bellfoundry. This bell is inscribed 'God Save The King T Meekings Tobie Norris Cast Me 1677. The sixth of the ring was struck by Hugh Watts II from his premises in Leicester. This is inscribed IHS NAZARENVS REX IVDEORVM FILI DEI MISERERE MEI 1616. This translates as 'Jesus Of Nazareth King Of The Jews Son Of God Have Mercy On Me'.
The seventh of the ring is courtesy of celebrated Peterborough founder Henry Penn. This has the names of the church wardens of the day inscribed on to it, Francis Cleeve and Will Maidwill, along with Penns mark and the date of 1723.
I have fond memories of looking at the church from the west on that summer 2014 visit; the setting sun bathing the tower in a golden glow for a short time. Three image niches hold weathered statues, with human heads, some grotesquely contorted, running across the top of the tower. Larger gargoyles look out from all four sides of the tower.
Carvings of heads are to be found throughout the exterior. A close look at a series of small figures shows one bent over exposing its buttocks at anyone who cares to look up and notice. Close by a female figure leans over showing an ample cleavage!
A corbel string of grotesque figures reminds me of similar seen at Ryhall, 12 miles or so away to the east. These figures have beads inserted in to the eyes and include a mermaid with long flowing hair, a creature pulling open its mouth exposing four ferocious teeth and a most bizarre creature which has two heads; a second much smaller head being placed on its rear end! Amusingly, one head peers out from the apex of a window tracery, hands resting on the tracery!
Externally this is an impressive church, built to the glory of God and reflecting the wealth and prestige here during medieval times of rebuilding. The church is described in a guide to Rutland churches as being ‘a perfect miniature cathedral’.
From the west, the western most ends of the north and south aisles extend out to the westernmost wall of the tower. It is similar to the east; with the eastern ends of the north and south chapels extending out to the eastern end of the chancel. The church is perpendicular throughout with the nave, clerestory, south porch and chancel all battlemented and buttressed, with the buttresses extending out in to crocketed pinnacles.
The setting was beautiful on this spring morning, with the daffodils out and bees buzzing around a flowering cherry to the south of the grounds. There was warmth in the air for the first time that spring after what had been an unseasonably cold winter compared to recent years!
Wandering out of the church grounds, away to the south east there are some good shots to be taken of the church and spire of All Saints standing out above the town medieval butter cross, which has stocks inside it. A walk away to the east allows shots of Oakham Castle, with the church in the background.
The church was open and it was good to see this church open again; it having been closed for worship in the previous few weeks due to the lighting system being upgraded. A chat with a friendly local informed me that the peace and solitude that I was looking forward to was liable to be short lived; with a party of schoolchildren due to arrive in half an hour for their end of term Easter service. For that reason, time was a little limited for the interior shots.
Moving inside, the light quality was exquisite; the sunshine did cause one problem though with the early morning sunlight streaming in through the east window making photography difficult. For that reason I have substituted a photograph looking east from a previous visit when conditions were easier. Please note that there is a continuity error here though with the colour of the altar cloth changing between the two visits!
The church here was restored by George Gilbert Scott between 1857 and 1859; with at that time a new east chancel window added, as well as restoration of the porch, new lighting and high quality screens. He removed the galleries and pews; renewed the floor, new roofs were erected over the chancel and south chapel, and the other roofs restored.
The north and south arcades are each of four bays with quatrefoil piers and finely carved capitals. The church organ is to be found at the eastern end of the north aisle. At first glance the hand of the Victorian restorers can be seen throughout the interior; with fixtures and fitting dating from then. Walking to the chancel arch and looking back to the west the outline of the previous roofline before the nave walls were heightened and the clerestory was added, can be seen above the tower arch.
The 14th century carvings on the capitals are among the finest to be found within the catchment area of my sites; possibly only rivalled by those at Castor near to Peterborough and Wakerley in Northamptonshire. In amongst grotesque heads and a green man we see Adam and Eve being expelled from the Garden of Eden with another showing the Annunciation and the coronation of the Virgin.
We also see a depiction of the pelican in her piety; with the mother bird tearing out the flesh from her body, feeding her chicks with the flesh and the blood. This was an often used symbol to denote the Christian faith; Jesus doing the same through his death on the cross.
We also see a depiction of Reynard the Fox making off with a goose in its jaws; being chased by goslings and an angry farmer. Reynard was a popular character, sly and not trustworthy, and the symbolism sometimes had religious overtones; and not particularly flattering ones at that with the phrase coined ‘When the fox preaches look to your geese’. The church guide here suggests that this carving may symbolise the Abbot of Westminster who demanded a ’Great Tithe’ of fish from fishermen in order that they could fish the Thames.
Moving in to the chancel, there are three bay arcades leading from the chancel in to the north and south chapels. The altar had a purple cloth; the liturgical colour for Lent, which would have been put on during Ash Wednesday and which would remain until replaced by a symbolic red cloth for Good Friday.
The marble reredos stretches across the full width of the chancel and dates from 1898, after Scott’s restoration, and features the ascension at the centre. Of considerably more age is the piscina alongside, against the south wall of the chancel, in which the holy vessels used during the Mass in pre reformation times would have been washed. This is one of five piscina to be found inside this church.
The east window in the chancel is of five lights and is by Hardman, dated to 1861. The risen Christ is dressed in a white robe with golden sash in front of a symbolically blood red sky. He is risen; with hands raised in blessing; wounds visible. Below are 11 disciples and Mary the mother of Jesus, with Judas having done the deed earlier and departed the scene. Peter is identifiable by holding the keys to the Kingdom of Heaven and John identifiable by his youth. Mary is dressed in blue as always.
The east window in the south chapel is modern dating from 1961 and shows the Virgin and child flanked by angels.
Against the south wall of the south chapel is glass by Sir Ninian Comper in 1913 which depicts Jesus being presented to Simeon in the temple. Jesus is wrapped in swaddling cloths; a cage which contains two doves, which was the temple sacrifice stated in Leviticus for those of limited means. Both Mary and Joseph are dressed simply; unlike many depictions which show them elegantly dressed in fine robes, in direct opposition to what was their limited means!
The tracery is interesting in this window with four shields showing four parts of the Christian faith. We have a font for baptism, the wounds shown on Christ’s hand, feet and heart and a chalice with wafer to show communion. The fourth shield is the most interesting though, with this being a trinity shield.
This was a diagram which was often used to explain the concept of the trinity. It consists of four nodes. The three outer nodes would have been labelled with the elements of the trinity “Father” “Son” and “Holy Spirit”. The inner node would have been labelled “God”. Six lines connect the nodes and these lines would have been marked either “is” or “is not” Twelve statements can be made as follows…
The Father is God" "The Son is God" "The Holy Spirit is God" "God is the Father" "God is the Son" "God is the Holy Spirit" "The Father is not the Son" "The Father is not the Holy Spirit" "The Son is not the Father" "The Son is not the Holy Spirit" "The Holy Spirit is not the Father" "The Holy Spirit is not the Son"
The east window of the north chapel is of five lights, with stained glass depicting the adoration of the Magi; with this courtesy of Clayton and Bell in 1867. Up in the tracery of this window there is a Jesse tree with various characters, with many crowned and holding sceptres; identification made difficult due to almost unreadable accompanying script!
The font is certainly worth mentioning. It is thought to be late 12th century which makes it older than anything else at the church with the exception of the south door which dates from the same time. It stands on what appears to be the base of a 14th century churchyard cross.
The graveyard here is without any gravestones; the churchyard wall and the town war memorial, which can be found close to the south porch each have their own Grade II Listing though.
It was good to be back here again; All Saints in Oakham is a gem in a beautiful county. Open welcoming and friendly; a must visit if you are in the area with the keen churchcrawler being rewarded with lots of open churches close by. Talking of which it was time to move on, heading north west to Whissendine, close to the Leicestershire border. Our Lent 2025 churchcrawl continued.
And to complete this look at All Saints, Oakham, a few shots from the summer of 2014. The sun was setting, with the west face of the tower lit up golden for a short time.
