ST IVES : CHURCH OF ALL SAINTS
Church Post Code PE27 6DG
Open Tuesday & Friday 10am until Noon.
It was March 2025 and a return visit to the church of All Saints at St Ives. The church here is normally closed to visitors out of service times but the church was open on Ride and Stride Saturday back in 2014. Memories also of a bright winter’s day back in 2014 when I was on foot, making my way back from the Hemingfords; the River Great Ouse bursting its banks after heavy rain. As I walked back to St Ives to get the bus back to Peterborough; the spires of All Saints and the Free Church standing out above the flooded fields to my north.
A return visit was made this March day, with the church being open as part of a Community Open Space, which sees the church open between 10 and noon two days a week.
St Ives is a large town, some 25 miles off to the south of Peterborough, which recorded a population of 16,815 at the time of the 2021 census. The town can be found five miles to the east of Huntingdon and 12 miles to the north west of Cambridge.
The town here dates back to Saxon times; and at the time of the Domesday Survey in 1086 there were two churches and two priests with the town itself being on land that was owned by Ramsey Abbey. There is note made of a church here though as far back as 970AD, with that early structure church being a basic wooden structure of which nothing remains.
The town was of geographic importance, being situated on the banks of the River Great Ouse, between Ely and Huntingdon, and prospered in medieval times. During the early 15th century a bridge was built over the river, which incorporated a chapel; one of just four town bridges throughout the country to incorporate a chapel. More of that later!
There is a statue of Oliver Cromwell in the town centre; with it believed that Cromwell developed his religious beliefs in St Ives during the 1630s; becoming an important figure in the English Civil War and a signatory on the death warrant for King Charles I. He went on to become Lord Protector in 1653.
The church of All Saints can be found at the southern end of the town; and I approached the church from the east; a few minutes’ walk from the town centre where the Friday market was taking place.
By around 1150 a stone building had replaced the earlier wooden structure; this was of some size and had a north aisle. A south aisle was added during the 13th century along with a chapel at the east end of the north aisle. During the 14th century the chancel was rebuilt with a vestry being added to the north.
The church here was completely rebuilt around 1470; with the west tower being added at that time; with note made that in 1492 Andrew Pelle of St Ives leaving 20 shillings ‘to the work of the new stepyll’.
The church that we see today consists of west tower with spire, north and south aisle with clerestories, north and south porches, north chapel, north vestry and chancel.
The broach spire stands 151 feet high; the spire has had an interesting life. It was blown down by a gale in 1741, being rebuilt by 1748. It was again rebuilt in 1879 before being the top of the spire was knocked off by an aeroplane in March 1918, with parts of the spire falling through the roof and in to the north aisle with the plane, a De Havilland DH6 falling in to the south aisle; the crash claiming the life of the pilot. The spire was rebuilt by 1924 but it was not before 1930 that a ring of newly recast bells were rehung and able to ring.
There was restoration here in the late 19th century, with internal work completed at that time by Sir Ninian Comper.
The tower and spire dominate the landscape, the River Great Ouse running close by to the south. This is a church of impressive proportions; indicating the wealth of the area during the middle ages. The western end of the north and south aisles extends out to the west wall of the tower. The clerestory consists of five two light windows; with the outline of the roofline of the chancel before it was rebuilt being visible against the eastern wall of the nave.
The three stage west tower is battlemented, with crocketed pinnacles; with the fine rebuilt recessed octagonal broach spire having a single two light shuttered window part way up. The church clock faces out from all four sides.
The west doorway in the tower is flanked by two ogee headed image niches, each of which contains a more modern statue, with St Peter holding the keys to the Kingdom of Heaven to the left as we look at it, St Paul with long flowing beard holds a sword; point upwards (even though the point itself has broken off) rather than point downwards as usual. Above this is a small recess which has a modern depiction of St Ivo; after whom the modern town of St Ives is named.
Today there is a ring of eight bells here, with a ring of eight; cast by Mears and Stainbank in 1930. Peterborough founder Henry Penn cast a ring of eight for this church in 1723 from the previous ring of six and when Revd Owen had his study of the church bells of Huntingdon published in 1899 the situation was as follows.
The first five were unchanged from when Henry Penn cast them. The first bell was inscribed ‘Arise And Go To Your Busines (sic) Henry Penn founder 1723’. The second read ‘I Praise The True God’ with the third reading ‘Their Sound Is Gone Up’. The fourth of the ring had the wonderful inscription ‘Sometimes Joy And Sometimes Sorrow Marriage Today And Death Tomorrow’ with a curious inscription on bell five reading ‘When Backward Ring We Tell Of Fire Think How The World Shall Thus Expire’.
Bells number six and seven, cast by Penn had each been recast by Taylor of St Neots in 1796 and bell number eight read ‘When Souls Are From The Body Torn Tis Not To Dye But The Be Born’.
There is a sad story connected to the bells here. Noted founder Henry Penn cast the ring of eight in 1723 but some of those at St Ives were less than happy with the quality and this led to a long protracted court case; which took a toll on Penn’s health. In the summer of 1729 the trial verdict found in favour of Penn but he collapsed and died whilst at St Ives at the age of 44 years shortly after the verdict was announced.
Walking back to St Ives from Hemingford Grey in 2014 and the River Great Ouse has burst its banks.
Visitors enter in through the north porch and the welcome committee was spot on, a friendly black dog trotting over to say hi; but I suspect in reality he was just checking me out for potential food! The human welcome was good as well; the kettle was on and we were good to go.
Moving inside we see a church of much grandeur, with work here by Ninian Comper in the 1890’s. There are four bay arcades to north and south; with nave separated from chancel by an ornate and impressive screen which is the work of Comper. This originally housed the church organ, with coloured carving of the crucifixion in the rood loft. The organ was rebuilt in 1926 and relocated to the north chapel, but the organ pipes were still left in place so as not to damage the integrity of the screen.
Also catching the eye are several coloured carvings on the piers, which are also the work of Comper. These date from 1897; but the brackets on which they rest date from the 1470 rebuilding. These include St Agnes who is depicted with a sheep, St Stephen the first Christian martyr who carries stones which denotes the manner of his martyrdom. We also see St Laurence who is shown with a gridiron, this again showing the manner of his martyrdom, St Margaret who is crowned and carries a cross; with dragon trampled underfoot. We also see Mary Magdalene who carries a jar of spices, which was to be used to anoint Jesus’ body.
Moving in to the chancel, the reredos has at its centre a depiction of Christ in Majesty, crowned with arms raised; an aureole of pulsating light radiating outwards from him.
There is some fine stained glass here, of great quality and interest; with the five light east window detailing scenes from Easter week. From left to right we see Jesus being betrayed by Judas with a kiss in the Garden of Gethsemane as he is arrested. Next we see Jesus carrying his own cross. Central is the crucifixion with Jesus crucified in front of a red sky; symbolic of the blood that was shed for us. We then see the resurrection and the ascension.
The east window of the south aisle is of five lights and shows the Pharisees attempting to trick Jesus; ‘Render to Caesar the things that are Caesar’s and to God the things that are God’s’. This is a beautifully clear depiction; with vibrant colours and an interesting choice of scene for this prime location. I can’t recall seeing this passage from Mark Chapter 12 in glass before.
Gilded angels holding candlesticks flank the altar; with the altar flanked by large image niches which would have held statues prior to the reformation; with an ornate double piscina against the south wall, which would have been used in washing the holy vessels used in the Mass in pre reformation times, with the rounded arch decorated with dogtooth design.
At the west end of the south aisle we have what I consider to be my favourite window to be found in any of the churches within the catchment area of my sites looking at churches surrounding Peterborough. This is a three light window telling the parable of the wise and foolish virgins. This is from Matthew Chapter 25 and Jesus tells a parable urging those listening to be prepared for when Jesus returns; as no one knows when that will be.
Ten virgins, who symbolise humanity, wait for the return of the bridegroom, who is Jesus. Five of the virgins are prepared and have oil for their lamps; the other five are foolish and have no oil. They are out attempting to buy oil when the bridegroom returns and only the five who were prepared enter through the wedding door with Jesus.
Also against the south wall we have a three light window from Charles Eamer Kempe, which contains his wheatsheaf signature in the bottom left hand corner. This shows scenes from Easter on two levels; with the higher level showing angels, with wings of Peacock feathers, appearing to the three Mary’s on Easter morning. The lower level shows two scenes from the Risen Christ meeting the two on the road to Emmaus; the main panel registering the shock on the men as they sit at their table and finally realise who they have been talking to.
One further window shows Jesus seated, talking with Mary and Martha. As always, Mary is depicted seated at Jesus’ feet, hands clenched together in prayer, concentrating on what Jesus is saying. Martha was always active, always doing something and here she is shown carrying a water pitcher and she appears to be looking at her sister rather than at Jesus. Script below is part of Luke Chapter 10 verse, with the full verse reading in the King James version ‘But one thing is needful: and Mary hath chosen that good part, which shall not be taken away from her’.
One further three light window shows the parable of the Good Samaritan. A stricken Jew lays down wounded with a priest and a Levite ignoring the plight of their countryman. He was helped by a Samaritan, the sworn enemy of the Jews, who tends to his wounds, takes him to a lodging where he pays for the Jew to stay. One further three light window shows the raising of Jairus' daughter; a beautiful depiction.
Moving back outside the church grounds have some interestingly carved gravestones; although none of the stones here have a Grade II Listing. Both the churchyard gate to the east and the churchyard wall to the west do have their own listing though.
Several of the gravestones here show angels in flight blowing a trumpet; the trumpet being an often used symbol for the resurrection. On one stone the angel is shown with a human skull, the deaths head, which was used to remind the onlooker that Man is mortal and will die; following the path that the deceased has taken. Therefore, live out a good Christian life, trust in God and do not be caught lacking when your own time comes. Taken as a whole, this stone can be seen as a testament as to the faith of the deceased, who has died but will be resurrected on the final day.
Another angel in flight is accompanied by a human heart, a simple symbol of love for someone passed on some 300 years ago!
Close by Old Father Time lifts the lid on an urn, which is filled with a skull and human bones, and what appears to be a very weathered crown; this being a crown of victory, with the victory here being over death. As with the above, this can be seen as a testament as to the faith of the deceased as well as being set out as an example for the onlooker to follow.
Also worth noting is a scene on another stone from Genesis Chapter 22 where Abraham is about to sacrifice his son Isaac; an Angel of the Lord reaching out from the clouds to stop him, with the provided sacrifice, a Ram caught up in a thicket off to one side.
It was time to move on; this is a beautiful church and it was good to be able to see it again. This was also a time to sit and enjoy the company of others. The friendly black dog has checked everyone out for the possibility of biscuits and was now busily engaged with a ball which seemed to have some sort of food inside it. The church here is well worth taking a look at if you get the chance.
ST IVES BRIDGE CHAPEL
Chapel Post Code PE27 5UW
Open for Ride and Stride day
It was a warm Saturday afternoon in September 2014; ‘Ride and Stride’ day and after visiting the church of All Saints at St Ives I wandered to the south of the town to visit the Bridge Chapel; situated in a pleasant part of what is a very pleasant town.
It was a lazy Saturday afternoon and I spent some time looking at the chapel from the quayside; a small boat manoeuvring under the bridge and drawing alongside the chapel; a small friendly inquisitive white dog who was wearing a rather fetching blue kerchief, showed an interest in a nearby swan, which showed complete indifference to the dog in return. The spire of the Free Church in the town centre, extends up over the chapel.
There has been a bridge crossing the River Great Ouse since 1107, with the original wooden structure being built by the monks of Ramsey Abbey. This original wooden bridge was replaced by a stone structure, which was started in 1414 and finished in 1425. In 1426 a chapel was added to the bridge, which was dedicated to St Ledger.
Bridge chapels were at one point a common sight on major bridges throughout the country, but these fell out of favour in England after the reformation. There are four surviving bridge chapels in England, these being at Rotherham, Wakefield, Bradford Upon Avon and St Ives. Two further, at Derby and Rochester have surviving chapels which are on the river bank rather than being a part of the structure of the bridge itself.
Their purpose was varied with some having chantry chapels associated with them where prayers would be said for the souls of the dead. They were also a place where travellers could stop to give thanks to God for a safe journey. In others, the priest was called upon to collect tolls from travellers.
After their spiritual use had ended the chapels were often put to other uses; the chapels at Bradford Upon Avon and Derby being used as jails whilst here at St Ives the redundant chapel was used as a ‘bawdy house’ during the 18th century, which is a polite way of saying brothel. During the mid 19th century it was a public house with a notorious reputation; called ‘Little Hell’. Eclectically, the chapel was also used as a doctor’s surgery as well for a time.
The chapel was restored in 1930, at which time two extra floors were taken down due to safety concerns.
This small chapel is set in to the centre of the bridge. A close look at the bridge itself will show that the arches on the bridge to the south of the chapel are of different design to those to the north; this due to the southern part of the bridge being demolished during the English Civil War with a drawbridge added, with rebuilding back to its original form, albeit with different design of arch in 1716.
With regards the chapel itself, there is not a great deal to say. This is a basic two storey single cell building, with the east end rounded in an apse. Inside there is nothing of note to be fair, with just a couple of benches set against the wall downstairs, with an oven set in to one wall; with a glance upwards showing some ancient timber beams. It was lovely to be able to see inside. Interestingly there is a carved stone which has the initials TD carved in to it.
A small structure certainly; rich in history and interest definitely; part of its history lurid and a possibly not to be though about too deeply, most definitely! It was great to be able to see around this rare survivor. Well worth taking a look at if you can.